Fort Jesus at first light

The gates open quietly. For the first hour, the fort belongs to the fishermen coming in and the odd jogger circling the moat.

Walk the ramparts clockwise. The light hits the coral rag walls from the east, and for about twenty minutes the whole fort glows the colour of wet sand.

Practical notes

• Go on a weekday if you can; weekends bring school groups.
• The museum rooms open later than the grounds — plan the walls first.
• Bring water. There is shade, but it moves.